This summer, I wrote a piece about living on the popular ‘North Coast 500’ route through the lens of my own experience as a resident of Caithness. Entitled ‘Poo, Potholes and Park-Ups – Why Highlanders are Tired of Scotland’s North Coast 500 Route,’ the article was probably more even-handed than the alliterated headline might suggest. Focused on my own experiences during beach cleans at Dunnet, the piece featured the backdrop of research and a summary of some of the benefits and challenges initiatives like the NC500 present for local residents. I knew the North Coast 500 was a controversial subject, and of course did expect a degree of debate around the article. Even so, the response to the post surprised me, and I soon found myself flooded with comments, emails and private messages. Within a week, the article had been shared over ten thousand times on Facebook, and viewed tens of thousands of times on top of that. Someone from BBC Breakfast got in touch to ask me to appear in a segment they were doing on the route – you can view a clip of that below (a longer audible version is available on BBC Sounds via this link). Feedback on all of this was fairly divided (which the comments on my original post probably show). All the same, the vast majority of those who responded were supportive. Less encouraging were a smaller number of responses and messages which were unpleasant in nature.
This came as a surprise to me not so much because of the views themselves, but the vitriol with which they were expressed.
Much of this was linked to North Coast 500 ‘fan’ groups, where one man branded me a ‘miserable Scot’ who wanted ‘peace and quiet’, asserting that ‘anyone who has driven the route knows this is mostly b******* designed to deter tourism.’ Another man maintained that the NC500 was ‘born…nurtured and profited from by Highlanders,’ who were now blaming others for the side-effects, dismissing my piece as ‘gutter journalism’ and encouraging NC500ers to carry on as they were. Other men emailed and messaged enquiring about whether I was a ‘tourist lover’ and making statements with fairly nasty undertones. One man even went to the trouble of unearthing an article I had written some years ago on the virtues of Caithness, posting it on a Facebook group with the implication that having supported responsible tourism to my homeland in the past, I now had no business complaining about people pooing on beaches and lighting fires in fragile dunes. I was dismissed by some as a ‘selfish, moaning local’ and by others as a possible ‘incomer’ whose views were not representative of local residents – both of which were apparent grounds for invalidating the experiences I outlined in my article. A hardcore of individuals who claimed to love the north Highlands seemed to have a lot more difficulty extending their affection to local residents.
They loved the Highlands, yet didn’t appear to love the people who call the Highlands home.
Thankfully, I am more resilient than I thought, and all of this upset me less than I might have imagined (I didn’t engage with any of the above, and also quickly stopped looking at comments on my blog post). What it did show, however, was how polarised views on the North Coast 500 – and indeed most things discussed on social media – have now become. It’s a shame debates no longer seem possible without a descent into name-calling and invective, and I tried to focus my attentions on those who displayed empathy – the fragile thing it is these days. With some people, it seems, you just can’t win, and it felt prudent to accept that and move on. I had to hope my article had achieved something in raising awareness – perhaps encouraging those promoting rural areas to focus less on economic justifications and more on how they could better support and engage with the communities most impacted by the NC500. This article by a Highlander travelling parts of the route this summer offers a more nuanced look at the experience than many of the travel blogs I’ve come across, and it’s helpful to see more discussion on the challenges (as well as the positives) increased levels of tourism bring to place.
As for me, I’ve come to learn that the feeling of sadness about home that has often accompanied me these past few years is something called ‘solastalgia.’ A friend posted an article on this state of being – a term coined by philosopher Glenn Albrecht to describe a feeling of distress about environmental change near home, a feeling of an ‘endemic sense of place being violated’ in a way individuals feel powerless to do much about. I wondered how many other Highlanders feel that sense of solastalgia – ‘the homesickness you have when you are still at home,’ a term with links to the words ‘solace’ and ‘nostalgia’ and resonant of the Gaelic cianalas, which conveys a sense of longing or belonging and is often associated with feelings of homesickness or nostalgia.
At different points in the last two years, I have probably felt all of these things despite rarely leaving my home here in Caithness.
Reading Neil M. Gunn’s The Well at the World’s End this month, I had to smile at 1950’s protagonist Peter Munro’s complaint over the lack of welcome offered to him by a Highland resident in the early pages of the novel. ‘I expect it’s all this tourism,’ Peter comments:
‘It’s the first time I have ever gone to a door in the Highlands for a drop of water,’ he said, ‘and been told to fetch it myself from a dry well.’
Thankfully, even in an embittered 2021, I doubt Peter’s experience is widespread, and the friendly nature of local residents remains a prevailing feature of the Highlands (and if you’ve read The Well at the World’s End, of course, you’ll know that the well Peter was directed to was never dry). I was heartened to hear from a friend who recently visited the far north on holiday, later commenting on the respectful, kind locals – qualities the last two summers have not appeared to dim. I tend to agree with poet George Gunn, who writes in his love-letter to Caithness, The Province of the Cat: ‘Caithnessians are welcoming and kind in the usual Highland manner….their instincts have always been to benefit from the labour of their own hands rather than depend on the vagaries of a (tourism) service industry.’
Whatever local people feel about tourism, it seems the enduring Highland nature still prevails.
Last week, I listened to George (alongside local singer Nancy Nicolson), relay stories about Caithness in an afternoon of poetry and song as part of Lyth Arts Centre’s ‘Northern Lights Festival.’ It struck me – not for the first time – how rich our storytelling culture is here in the far north. I wondered about our stories, how they could better help visitors connect with the places we live in – a landscape alive with people and communities.
Because falling in love with places isn’t just about falling in love with scenery or grand vistas.
Falling in love with places is about falling in love with stories – and learning to connect with the people who call those places home.
Gx
For a similar view….https://artuk.org/discover/stories/the-faraway-gaze-resisting-remoteness-in-art
Thank you for sharing – excellent piece.
So sorry to hear of your experience with some of the comments to your blog. Well done on not rising to them and not letting them get to you. It is a great shame that views like yours cannot be shared without some vitriol being served up in return.
Thank you for sharing your views it is so important to read and hear them.
Martyn, thanks so much.
‘one man, another man, other men, one man’ – sometimes it is embarrassing to be male. I thought your blog was great and although I think I am a responsible traveller, it did make me think more about responsible travel and tourism. ‘Pooing on the Beach’ – how can that even be a thing 🤢. If we want to go to great places, surely part of appreciating those places is looking after them? Anyway, thanks for your blog 😀
Thank you for reading Denn, and for your comment. Yes, let’s hope the ‘wild pooing’ trend is short-lived!
As always Gail, a truly balanced article. I admire your resilience not just to the comments themselves, but also in not allowing it to taint your outlook and realising that these are not the views of the majority, but perhaps a few keyboard warriors. I hope your awareness raising articles continue to have a positive effect. They have been picked up by the BBC and widely spread and so I do hope your Government and local councils are able to respond to this and perhaps gain/allocate funds to support local initiatives to alleviate some of the problems, for example the updating and opening of the public toilets in Thurso.
I agree loving the highlands (or anywhere else for that matter) is not just about the scenery and if that’s all the tourists wish to see then, in my opinion, they are missing the essence of what a place is. Wherever we have travelled, we have joined local groups, found out about places away from the ‘tourist promoted’ areas, discussed with people about local life, this is what makes a trip special, the people, the folklore, the everyday life, not just photo opportunities. Yes we do like to see the promoted sites, but are more likely to be there at quiet times, but we find there is always so much more that makes a place a special memory for us. For example finding a loch at twilight and experiencing the solitude and wonderful colours and shadows only to turn round and find a stag standing resplendently within a few yards of us, or the evening conversations with our destination hosts about local life. It’s about listening carefully, appreciating the time they are taking to discuss nothing and everything with you – these are the things which can make magic memories. Everywhere is shaped by history, its people, how they’ve needed to interact with the land around them. I feel that if you don’t engage with every part of something, you can’t ‘know’ a place and if you don’t ‘know’ it, how can you ‘love it’ – surely only appreciating a view or an outlook is merely an infatuation?
I would love to have been able to attend the story telling evening, it sounded very special- maybe we might find something similar next time we are up.
Thank you Linda. I love your comment and your perspective on this. It’s so true – when people aren’t connecting with the deeper elements of place and people, they are missing out on so much.
It’s a strange world out there. I think the remote and vaguely anonymous nature of the internet causes people to take polarised and extreme views expressed in a way they wouldn’t dream of delivering face to face. I’m sorry that you’ve had such an unpleasant experience, but glad that you’ve managed to disregard the worst of it. It was a good, well expressed and perfectly valid article. We need more of these. 👍😘
Thank you so much for that – and yes, the internet can be a strange place.
Beautifully written as ever Gail. And sentiments and emotions beautifully expressed. Do not let the rogue males get under your skin, but I fear you will get more online nonsense for your honest thoughts and observations. My interest. I was offered work for a few spring/summer seasons around Caithness, so was a temporary resident for a while. Until then the county was somewhere to get through on the way to Orkney or north Sutherland. It gradually dawned on me that I was in love, with the place, and the people I met. I saw the hotels being renovated, only to hear with a sigh that nobody stayed more than one night. I have spent months there, and feel I still do not know the place. We certainly need some radical thinking on tourism publicity and infrastructure. I will try to collect my thoughts and put something on paper. You stay strong. I am south of the border now (just), but know that the call of the north will be irresistable next spring. Whales and puffins. Mmmmmm. And it will not be a day trip.
Thanks for your comment Philip – I’m so glad to hear of your love for Caithness. You’re right, it takes time to get to know a place – I’ve lived here all my life (barring the student years), and even now, I still have much more to discover and learn.
It’s very distressing generally to see the way some folk behave on social media. They make vitriolic, personal attacks, without any thought of the consequences. In my opinion this is to their shame. They simply demean themselves, by their words.
Recently, my wife and I had the great pleasure of visiting Assynt – one of our favourite places. Not just in Scotland, but in the world. On the second day, we were stopped as we left our accommodation in Elphin, by a man who appeared very flustered. He was driving a rented camper, and waving a map.
“I can’t find this place.” He declared. “And we need some breakfast. In fact I can’t even pronounce it.” He then pointed at the map. His finger rested on Inchnadamph.
“Which way are you traveling? Enquired I.
He frowned, looking confused, and then said. “To Ullapool.”
“Well, you’ve passed Inchnadamph.” I replied. “You probably missed it, because there’s very little there. Certainly not a café. In fact, there really isn’t anything between here and Ullapool, so if you want a cooked breakfast you’re best heading there. It’s only twenty miles down the road.”
At this point he tutted. Yes, that’s right… a tut. Then he reversed the camper wildly, back onto the main road, and drove off at speed.
It’s really not that surprising that people behave badly on the Internet. Some of them can’t even be personable when dealing with another human being, face to face.
We love your articles Gail. Thank you.
Thank you so much John, and what an interesting story. I do wonder sometimes about the marketing of all of this, and what people are being led to expect. I’ve heard about visitors anticipating gift shops and cafes in very rural areas, much like your experience here – the response you encountered was disappointing. And yes, the internet can be a troublesome place – it’s a shame things always tend to descend negatively. I won’t let it put me off writing, though. Thank you again, I appreciate your support.
Living very local, my wife and I are lucky enough to isolate from the covid and the issues you raise so superbly and truthfully. I read practically every post on the many NC500 FB sites. The attitude of some visitors is shocking, I have been pilloried by some and to respond creates a vitriol of abuse- now I just move on, these individuals have no realistic view or even care about anyones life but their own. Often though I get the impression the route is a perceived Disney World experience, pubs, bars, eating establishments etc every few miles, experiences for their attention speaking children everywhere and it can be a complete let down. Whilst others expect the Aurora to be seen with the naked eye every night, even in the height of summer. The list of expectations is ridiculous, promoted to death initially and has snowballed on by the Grande Tour and FB idiots etc. Whilst trawling the posts and photographs of the destruction of machair, ancient trees felled for the must have beach fire, the hidden midden’s in the rocks, bushes and dunes are sad to have to witness. We can all but hope that the fame will diminish a little as holidays open up abroad. Sadly, we are not the only place with these issues, but many visitors are unaware that the deluge hoisted upon this area is overwhelming the locals in certain hotspots. The HC has poured money into providing facilities and Rangers to help resolve some of the issues, but many visitors are first timers and there is a constant flow of individuals that need educating every time. The Highlands are special, it has a unique habitat for many animals that need peace and quiet to survive, disturbance of them and the constant destruction of the natural world around them will ensure they slowly disappear sadly. The many beaches for example on this special coast are breeding areas for birds in the summer, where can they go? Lock down of 2020 was excellent for them, not so this year! I could go on……
Thank you for you articles, nice to know we are not alone in this!
Thanks for your comment, Trevor, and yes, the last couple of years have been challenging. You’re right – some of these issues seem to be widespread across the UK, which is a concern. Let’s hope measures to alleviate pressures on hotspot areas/communities will be considered over the winter. One of the saddest things related to me following my last blog post were reports of people planning to move away due to ongoing issues where they lived.
I am sorry that you received vitriolic messaging, It seems endemic of the polarising of debate that social media unfortunately brings on, but there is never an excuse for disrespect. I have touched on such things in columns I write for the local newspaper. We can just hope that reason and respect will win in debate. As long as you don’t get put off writing and publishing. Writers shouldn’t have to have thick skins. All the best
Thank you John, I appreciate that.
Sorry to hear of your experience with some of the comments on your blog. Some people are well… good job not rising to them and certainly not letting them get to you. It’s your space at the end of the day. They don’t need to read. You are amazing and super talented, don’t ever let anyone tell you otherwise xxx
Thanks so much for your kind and supportive comments Susan. I hope you are doing well. x